Sparkling Sake: A Unique Bubbly for Valentine’s Day

When Valentine’s Day arrives, my instinct is usually to open a bottle of bubbly. This year, I decided to try something a little different - a Japanese sparkling sake called Shichiken Yama no Kasumi. I’m on a bit of a mission this year to explore more sake, and this elegant sparkling style felt like the perfect place to begin.

For many people, sake still feels a bit mysterious. It’s often described as rice wine but that comparison isn’t entirely accurate. In fact, sake has more in common with beer because it is brewed rather than fermented from fruit. Yet it’s served in much the same way as wine, which is part of what makes it such a fascinating beverage.

Drink Columnist Laurie MacKay reviews Shichiken Sparkling Sake

Snow can come in handy for chilling down this bottle of sake.

At its heart, sake is made from just four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji, a remarkable enzyme that converts starch into fermentable sugar. The rice used for sake brewing is quite different from the rice we cook with at home. Special varieties are cultivated specifically for sake production and the mineral content of the water also plays an important role in the final character of the drink. Yeast contributes aroma and flavour while koji drives the unique fermentation process that defines sake.

Like grape varieties in wine, there are many strains of rice used for brewing. Japan grows more than one hundred varieties specifically for sake. Before brewing begins, the rice grains are polished to remove the outer layers that contain proteins and fats, leaving behind the starchy core that will ferment. Shichiken Yama no Kasumi sake is made from 100% Hitogokochi rice, a variety known for producing a soft, elegant and delicate style.

This sake comes from Yamanashi Meijo Brewery, a family-run producer founded in 1750. With more than 270 years of history, the brewery blends tradition with innovation. About two decades ago they helped pioneer the modern movement toward sparkling sake developing methods to create fine bubbles through natural fermentation in the bottle.

The brewery is located in Hakushu, in Yamanashi Prefecture, at the foot of the Southern Japanese Alps. This region is renowned for its pristine mountain water, which is essential to the brewing process. The spring water used by Yamanashi Meijo flows from Mount Kaikomagatake contributing to the smooth, clean character of the finished sake.

In the glass, this sparkling sake has a soft, cloudy appearance known as usu-nigori, a result of gentle filtration. The bubbles are delicate and lively. On the nose, it offers floral aromas with notes of fresh pear and a subtle savoury hint that adds complexity. On the palate, the texture is medium-bodied and refreshing, with lightly tropical impressions reminiscent of coconut water and a touch of pineapple. The fruitiness is vibrant but balanced, never overly sweet.

These flavours make it a wonderful partner at the table. When thinking about sake food pairings, versatility is one of its greatest strengths. Naturally, it works beautifully with sushi and sashimi, but it can also complement unexpected dishes. The lively bubbles cut through the richness of shrimp cocktail and balance the sweet and salty combination found in something like Hawaiian pizza.

Glassware can enhance the experience as well. For sparkling or aromatic styles like this one, I recommend serving sake in a white wine glass or champagne flute. These shapes allow the aromas to open up and showcase the fine bubbles. Traditional small sake cups are lovely but tend to emphasize texture more than aroma, making them better suited to richer, savoury styles.

Another interesting aspect of sake is its flexibility when it comes to temperature. Fruity and sparkling styles are best served well chilled to highlight freshness and aromatics. More savoury styles, on the other hand, can be gently warmed to emphasize depth and texture. Contrary to popular belief, warming sake isn’t about masking poor quality. It’s simply another way to enjoy it.

Exploring Japanese sparkling sake is a wonderful way to expand your beverage horizons, and Shichiken Yama no Kasumi is a beautiful example of the style. Light, elegant and full of character, it proves that sometimes the most delightful discoveries happen when we step outside our usual glass of bubbly.

This is a half bottle (360 ml) perfect for two people. It also comes in a full bottle format.

Pick up a bottle in Calgary at one of these fine stores - Cork Fine Wines, Vine Arts (17 Avenue SW and Victoria Park), 5 Vines (Wildwood) and Kensington Wine Market.

Outside of Calgary, check out LiquorConnect.com

Listen to the full CBC Radio One segment here: House Wine on The Homestretch

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