Raising a Glass to Pinotage at 100 years

South Africa’s signature grape, Pinotage, turns 100 this year and that feels like a fine reason to celebrate. Created in 1925 at Stellenbosch University, Pinotage is the offspring of Pinot Noir and Cinsault (known locally then as Hermitage). The idea was to combine the grace and structure of Pinot Noir with the sun-loving adaptability of Cinsault and the result was something distinctly South African. In grape years, a century is still quite young but in that time, Pinotage has already earned its place as the country’s proud original. Today, it’s the third most planted red grape in South Africa, after Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz.

Not everyone has always embraced Pinotage. For a while, it was considered a bit of an acquired taste. It is bold, smoky and sometimes rustic. But, modern winemakers have refined their approach, leaning into freshness, balance and purity of fruit. When well made, Pinotage has a fascinating dual personality: the juicy, berry-bright charm of youth and the earthy, truffled complexity that comes with age. I was reminded of that recently at a tasting led by Johan Jordaan, Cellar Master at Spier Wine Farm, who described Pinotage as “a wine that speaks to both the place and the people who make it.” It’s hard not to be drawn in by that sense of pride and identity.

One of the best examples of this more modern, graceful style comes from Kanonkop, a historic estate in Stellenbosch with deep roots in South Africa’s wine story. The name Kanonkop means “Cannon Hill,” a nod to the cannon that fired in the 17th and 18th centuries to alert farmers that ships had arrived in Cape Town Harbour. This was their cue to bring goods to market. Founded in 1973, the estate remains family-run, now led by brothers Jonn and Paul Krige, the fourth generation to carry on the tradition. Over the decades, Kanonkop has built an international reputation for Pinotage, showing how refined and food-friendly this once misunderstood grape can be.

Their Kadette Rosé 2024 captures that refinement beautifully. It’s made entirely from Pinotage, yet it expresses a completely different side of the grape — light, energetic and effortlessly charming. It’s a rosé that feels tailor-made for gathering, with a freshness that lifts the spirit and a structure that stands up to a meal. I love how seamlessly it fits into a Thanksgiving table, pairing with everything from turkey and stuffing to cranberry sauce and roasted vegetables. With a touch more tannin than Pinot Noir, Pinotage brings a subtle grip that makes it equally good with grilled salmon or charcuterie.

There’s also something deeply satisfying about raising a glass of Pinotage rosé as the grape marks its centennial year. It’s a reminder of how far South African wine has come from a small, isolated industry to one of the most dynamic and quality-driven regions in the world. And it shows that even a grape with a complicated past can evolve into something bright, fresh and full of promise. This wine feels both celebratory and grounded, a reflection of a grape that has finally come into its own.

TASTING NOTE - KANONKOP KADETTE PINOTAGE ROSE 2024

This rosé glows with a coral hue and offers aromas of wild strawberries, raspberries and a whisper of rose petal. On the palate it’s dry, crisp and medium-bodied with flavours of raspberry, Rainier cherry and a touch of thyme. The finish is refreshing and clean — almost like a white wine. (And yes, the label proudly declares it’s dry.)

You’ll find Kanonkop Kadette Rosé 2024 at many wine shops across Alberta — check LiquorConnect.com for availability.

Listen to the full CBC Radio One segment here: House Wine on The Homestretch